Friday, April 15, 2011

Issue 2

Anthropologies of Tourism
April 2011

Tourists at Cobá, Quintana Roo, Mexico 2008 - Photo by Ryan Anderson

Introduction: Tourism, anthropology, and the eternal search for a proper subject of study

I think I'll introduce this issue with a short story about one of my experiences with tourism.  About a decade ago I was hiking around in a place called Joshua Tree National Park.  One of those austere California desert destinations that I happen to be drawn to, for some reason or another.  I was checking out a spot called "Skull Rock", which does in fact look like a human skull in heat-warped sort of way.  Anyway.  Here is where things got interesting on that broiling, dry day: Skull Rock happens to be located alongside a nicely paved asphalt road.  Convenient, all things considered.  As I was wandering around, climbing upon those piles of rocks, this massive bus pulled up.  Seemingly out of nowhere.  A small legion of older folks (tourists?  retirees?)  rambled out of its doors.  

Cameras in hand, they flooded the solitude of Skull Rock for a pre-planned amount of time.  About 15 minutes, no longer.  They joked, they wandered (not far), and they snapped pictures that were destined for albums, wallets, and maybe the internet.  Proof, of course, that the bus had indeed pulled over and they had been to SKULL ROCK.  It makes you wonder whether we go to places to see the actual place, or to get the photo of the place (a point that Don Delillo makes in one of my favorite scenes in the book White Noise).  I watched, irritated by what I was seeing.  It was all wrong according to my moral and aesthetic compass.  You can't just drive out here in a bus, I thought to myself.  That's not the way things work.  I know how it all works--and that's not the way to experience this place.  I took pictures of the picture-takers (see image below) to gather evidence of the egregious social violation. 


The tourists snapped a few more photos, and then they were corralled back into the bus.  I stood by the rock, alongside that deep black, freshly paved road, somewhat incredulous.  Kind of funny, looking back.  Apparently, I had it in my mind that I knew the proper etiquette for acceptable behavior in that location.  But what gave me the idea that I "had it right"?  It was about 107 degress, mind you.  I never really wondered what those "tourists" (since that's what they were, not like me) thought about the sweaty, grubby guy out there in the middle of the midday heat.  To them, I could have looked like a lunatic.  Or, at best, completely misguided.  Perspective--as far too many social scientists like to tell us--really does matter.  Tourism, it seems, is about the confluence of desires in particular places, spaces, and situations.  And in many cases, those desires don't exactly speak to the same truths or even the same end goals.  Overlapping, yet not necessarily interacting--fields of experience.  Despite the geographical commonalities.  

When it comes to tourism--at Joshua Tree and elsewhere--there are a multiplicity of motivations.  Some people travel to experience difference, solitude, adventure, or what they imagine to be exotic.  Some have a deep inner drive to go where (they imagine) nobody has ever been before.  Others, however, just want to see the main sites that the guidebooks recommend and move on.  Stop at the site, get out, take pictures, move on.  Why not?  Still others seek escape and luxurious comfort that they don't necessarily get in their everyday lives.  And then there are the people who are in it for the money--whether we're talking about mega-international tourism businesses or small communities who want their cut of the tourism dollar.

So tell me this: what's the difference between the person that I was out there in the California desert 10 years ago (with all of my indignation about tourism etiquette and such), and the person I am today (phd student, studier of tourism and politics)?  Am I still making assessments and judgments based upon accepted norms and frameworks?  Am I just another tourist--perhaps an information/ethnographic tourist?  Am I simply approaching particular places from a different set of epistemologies (Bruner and MacCannell vs Fodor's and Lonely Planet)?

You tell me.  The first time I ever heard about the anthropological study of tourism I think I might have almost fallen out of my chair.  What?  Who studies tourism?  What does that mean, anyway--the comparative study of trendy martinis in Acapulco, or what?  It seemed like a hilarious affair, and I wondered how such a research agenda could be taken seriously.  Then, I started to listen.  I started paying attention to what all of the books, articles, and texts were talking about--globalization, international politics, power, conflict, identity.  And the more I read about the critical study of tourism the more serious it all became.  The more I realized that it has all of the elements that good, critical anthropology needs to explore.  It is, after all, one of the biggest international markets.  People pay billions of dollars each year to experience other places, cultures, events, ideas, and, literally, bodies (see Denise Brennan's work, for starters).  Other people, on different end of the bargain, simply want their fair share of the "benefits" of tourism (which are rarely as egalitarian as many claim).  Tourism, despite its seemingly lighthearted nature, is laden with power dynamics, social conflict, and tremendously serious consequences.  In short: tourism matters.  

While places like Cancún seem like pleasure-infused touristic utopias, a multiplicity of "other" histories and realities simmer just below the surface.  Tourism matters because of the millions of people who are affected by the reach of its markets--in positive, negative, and horrendously ambiguous ways.  It matters because many still see tourism as an easy solution to socio-economic development--despite the pervasive problems.  Tourism sounds like it's all about leisure and relaxation.  If you only pay attention to ads in airline magazines and other (pervasive) media discourses, you might actually believe the romanticized, simplified hype.  But if you look a bit deeper, there's a lot more to the story.  Maybe, just maybe, that's where the anthropologists come in.  Maybe anthropologists--despite sometimes being mistaken for (or even sometimes being) tourists--have an important contribution to make to encouraging a broad (and critical) understanding of this international phenomena we call tourism.  Considering the global, political, and economic effects of tourism, this is a pretty relevant task, if you ask me.

Anyway, on to this issue.  This issue features the work of John Hutnyk, Sarah Taylor, Michael A. Di Giovine, Tamás Régi, Conor Muirhead, and Sergi Yanes. Just like the first issue, this one also features a Visual Anthropology piece--this time by Conor Muirhead.  Lastly, there is the Open Thread, and I encourage any and all readers to use this as a space to express opinions, reactions, and thoughts about the meanings of tourism, anthropology, and travel.  Don't be shy, folks.  The whole point is to move beyond one-way communication to create a space for dialog, debate, cross-fertilization of ideas, and flat-out intellectual brawls.  Ok, you don't have to brawl about tourism if you don't want to--but if you're even thinking about thinking of posting something--do it.  Regardless, I hope you enjoy this issue.  Over and out.

R.A.

The Social Conceptualization of the Tourist

The anthropological study of tourism has generated a body of theory that aims to define and delimit an object of study—the tourist—that in many cases is diluted among other forms of activities, experiences, and preoccupations in our contemporary society. Some of these studies, now classics in the anthropology of tourism (e.g. D. MacCannell, E. De Kadt, V. L. Smith, J. Urry, A. Santana), have theorized about the relationship between “hosts and guests”, differentiating them through a series of dichotomies such as leisure/work, foreigners/locals, consumption/production, and transience/stability. These studies have established the foundations for a branch of social research that has been largely ignored by the wider field of anthropology.

While the vast majority of tourism studies point to the subtle nature of the differences between hosts and guests (which are not seen as fixed), maybe we cannot simply ignor some of the dichotomies that do exist between hosts and guests.
 The conceptualization of the tourist has been generally treated by social scientists in a reductionist way. But as Clavé and González argue, the study of tourists “is not to defend them at all costs, or close our eyes to the negative effects of tourism” (2007:12). Instead, they argue that tourism research provides an opportunity to gain a better understanding of symbolic, economic, and territorial meanings from the perspective of the tourists themselves. This, according to Clavé and González, will allow us to move beyond a merely “ideological analysis” (2007:12). Over a century after Thomas Cook established the first organized tour package in the world, maybe we have to remind ourselves that without tourists, there is no tourism.

In tourism contexts, the perception of otherness produces a wide spectrum of attitudes, modes of communication, representations and practices which have, as their central figure, the tourist (Horta et al., 2010). But tourists no longer appear as the unknown foreign visitor, the exceptional "guest". Instead, they are a part of the urban landscape as much as any other human, and they are both responsible for and victims of the social dynamics that surround their own leisure activity.

In urban environments, the categorizations of human diversity are filled with stereotypes, and those stereotypes reflect the how people identify themselves as either insiders or outsiders in relation to particular social groups (González & Rodríguez, 1994). This reflects a need to develop the deeper understandings of personal identity formation, since the perception and attribution of characteristics is not a simple sensory or psychological process—social, cognitive, and cultural factors surely intervene. The representations that shape local understandings of tourists, as Agustín Santana argues, operate through non-specific elements based on critical factors such as nationality, ethnicity, and individual experience. At different levels, these factors adapt particular categorizations to new models of touristic industry, resulting in powerful transformations of identity categories. When stereotypes are effective, they change the norms, values and standards of hosts (Santana, 1997: 113).

Under the influence of powerful media discourses, the forces of leisure and recreational desire shape everyday behaviors in the tourist destinations. The mere generalization of this fact serves to legitimate forms of interaction that capitalize on this dynamic relationship. The drive to distinguish between resident and non-resident, non-local and local, citizens and citizens of passage, is insufficient if the aim is to capture the heterogeneity of activities, identities and lifestyles in relation to the contemporary function of tourist cities. The classic features that differentiate urban users are now mixed in a complex environment composed of practices, visions, modes of communication that blur our conceptualization of tourists.

In urban contexts, the tourist becomes an actor on the street: not just, or only, a foreign visitor, but also an actor who is able to hide among the rest of society or even resort to intentional camouflage himself. The dichotomy "tourist / local" has been spread between interstitial figures, so the map of urban users is extended to indeterminate characters that form a set of practices and relationships mediated by functions of leisure and tourism which may not fit the formal description of "tourist". Otherness does not just allude to what is exotic and distant, and it’s not necessarily about contrasting values; it is also about larger processes of identification. Within the anthropology of tourism, the "other" is the face of oneself. Almost all of us are, ultimately, tourists at some level: "today you work for it, and tomorrow you are, a tourist" (Santana, 2003: 51).

If we understand heritage as a social construction that symbolically represents identity (Prats 1997), the social, urban and heritage constructions of tourism sites, have resulted in a kaleidoscope of structures, uses of space, and identities that go beyond merely touristic. This forces a reconsideration of the boundaries between tourists and non-tourists, since the characteristics that are traditionally assumed to belong to tourists (mobility, transience, consumption, leisure) also apply to tourism’s stereotypical opposite: the local. In this sense, the tourist space is also an imagined, co-created space that exists at variegated levels, populated by a multiplicity of actors (Nogués Pedregal, 2005:14).


Drawing upon Mikel Aramburu’s analytical framework, which employs a methodology that takes account of both “racial tactics” and “differentiating strategies” to analyze the mechanisms for conceptualizing immigrants in Barcelona, we can proceed to certain hypotheses about the role of the tourist: locals do not question, in general, the inequalities or the turistic structure; instead, they use the category of "tourist" (beyond a marker of otherness) to mark the outer limits of their own social world. The culturalist strategy of Aramburu can be transformed into a "strategy of status and behavior", which can avoid xenophobic assumptions in favor of approaches that are more focused on power relationships and socio-economic conditions.

Such conceptualizations of the tourist play a critical role in the larger touristic imaginary. This involves a vast array of media and cultural references that combine themselves to create deeply embedded stereotypes. These stereotypes serve to rearrange the power dynamics of tourism encounters: the tourist is discredited and discounted by locals as as a non-citizen, an outsider, unaware of the city, open to ridicule and abuse. At the same time, the tourist is also—somewhat contradictorily—considered a privileged actor situated above the rules and laws that locals must obey. Remember the painted wall: "Tourist, you are the Terrorist".

Sergi Yanes
Turiscòpia and Observatori de la Vida Quotidiana
www.turiscopia.blogspot.com
www.ovq.cat


References

Anton Clavé, S. González, F.
2007  A propósito del turismo. La construcción social del espacio turístico. Editorial UOC. Barcelona.

Aramburu, M.
2002  Los otros y nosotros: imágenes del inmigrante en Ciutat Vella de Barcelona. Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte, Secretaría de Estado de Cultura

González, R/Armando, P. 
1994  “El contenido de los estereotipos y su relación con las teorías implícitas”. Psicothema, vol. 6 nº3. 375-386

Horta, G. et al. 
2010  “A voltes. Pels itineraris turístics de Barcelona (1908-2008)”. Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya, núm. 36, Barcelona, Generalitat de Catalunya - Departament de Cultura.

Nogués Pedregal, A. M. 
2005  “Etnografías de la globalización: cómo pensar el turismo desde la antropología”, Archipiélago, núm 68. 33-38.

Prats, L.
1997  Antropología y patrimonio. Barcelona: Ariel.

Santana, A. 
1997  Antropología y turismo. ¿Nuevas hordas, viejas culturas?. Ariel. Barcelona.
2003  “Jugant a ser amfitrions: trobades i impactes en el sistema turístic”. Revista d'Etnologia de Catalunya. Nº22. 46-51

A San Diego Cultural Narrative

By its very nature, the art of traveling removes tourists from their home culture and places them temporarily in a different cultural milieu, whether in an adjacent city or in a village halfway across the world.

-McKercher and du Cros, Cultural Tourism: 
The Partnership between Tourism and Cultural Heritage Management 2002

Over the course of my lifetime, I have been interested in travel and tourist activities. With our modern ability to span the globe in a matter of hours, the astounding rates of tourism and its importance to understanding both local and global processes have seemingly become intertwined with our pursuit of daily existence. For the city of San Diego, California, the Visitor Industry is the third largest revenue generator, following manufacturing and the military. Because of the tourism industry’s influence and significance to San Diego’s continuing urban development, it is essential to assess its impact on the spaces and people that serve to attract all of these visitors. Moreover, linkages between tourism, space, history, and commoditization are investigated across locations, but it is within a city setting that anthropologists have a unique opportunity to study the varied activities that shape a dense, multifaceted and peopled environment.

For this discussion, I would like to focus on a place in San Diego where I conducted my thesis research: Old Town San Diego State Historic Park (referred to as Old Town, OTSDSHP, and the Park). Old Town is a historic urban public park that has developed over the years as a popular tourist destination in San Diego. It is a 12-acre California State Park situated in the heart of San Diego and averages over 5 million visitors annually. Old Town is advertised as the “birthplace of California” and is described as a living history site that uses human interpreters, as well as symbolic representations, to bring to life and teach about the past in our current present. The Park is dedicated to public education, but business operations – with pragmatic concerns of visitor attendance rates, stretching limited budgets, and upholding concessionaire guidelines – continue to muddle the effectiveness of education through history and entertainment. The Park’s “historical significance”, its Interpretive Period, encompasses three unique stages that include major, permanent transformations to Southern California’s landscape: the Mexican Period (1821 – 1846), the Transition Period (1846 – 1856), and the American Period (1856 – 1872), as well as displaying a tad bit of American Indian presence throughout the years. Old Town hinges its continuing evolution as a contemporary tourist location, complete with “authentic” buildings, material culture, employee attire, performances, and cuisine, on this 50 year Interpretive Period.

Old Town can be described as a dreamscape produced for visual consumption and is a place in which Park operators inscribe cultural narratives into Old Town’s built environment. These cultural narratives are played out through the Park’s structural layout, period attire clad employees, multiple commercial operations, as well as Park tours and themed special events held throughout the year. What makes Old Town intriguing is that visitors continue to swarm through Old Town’s buildings, engaging with historical interpreters who tell stories about ourselves by talking about what we imagine the past to have been. San Diego history continues to breathe through present tourist activities, and is constructed by our present ideologies and beliefs about who we are today and who we were (or ideally should have been) in the past. This complex array of placed and misplaced histories, narratives, and personalities all coming together in a distinct location is really quite captivating.

Although Old Town is a distinct location, the park is representative of the city of San Diego, other living history sites across the nation, and urban public spaces abroad, as well as being tied to larger global processes of theming, commoditization, and tourism. This is because physical spaces, structures, and cultural constructions serve as metaphors for larger populations and environment. I also believe that the displayed themes at Old Town symbolize even more because of Old Town’s setting within the large urban area of San Diego. The exotic, fetishized elements are additionally highlighted because Old Town takes visitors away from surrounding busy city life and transports them not only in place, but also through time. Scholars write that many tourists traveling to living history sites are symbolically transported into actually believing that they are a part of an unspoiled and authentic community. Although spaces are obviously updated with functioning toilets, ATM machines, and electronic cash registers, Old Town makes the stage look authentic through buildings and activities of employees in period attire specific to the Old Town Interpretive Period.

As cultural consumers, visitors are attracted to places that portray particular themes and depictions of life. These places are influenced by cultural norms and trends, putting on display to the public modified and favorable versions of reality. The theming of Old Town’s space is not simply to make the place look respectable, but also to display a particular image that embodies something more than itself. It functions in a fluctuating consumer environment, playing off visitor desires and their willingness to accept the stories told through theming as real, meaningful, and authentic. In Old Town San Diego, important connections are made through the commoditization of San Diego history and by unifying ideas and symbols to create a joyful location to visit. Although the actual history can be important, it is not as significant as how history is reshaped and subsequently interpreted by the ephemeral visitors. Even though tourists have not experienced the 1800s westward expansion and settlement themselves, their participation at Old Town provides a sense of place and identity.

Tourism in Southern California has always had a dual nature. It has been part of the development of a physical infrastructure, while also combining goods, settlers, businessmen, and tourists with the exploration of land. Furthermore, close ties between place building and image building endure, creating a close link between the development and continual reinvention of Southern California’s physical landscapes and social environments. It is important to remember that Old Town is not necessarily creating an artificial fantasy (because the area does indeed have an actual history), but rather staging a version of it in the real past, as documented by experts and historians, with modern amenities to ensure visitor comfort and positive visitor experience. The Park plays off visitor desires in order to continue operations and produce an imagined, historical California landscape and social environment considered to be a multi-faceted form of education and recreation to all who visit.

Conor Muirhead
Wish You Were Here

Peripatetic Cultures: When Nomads meet Tourists

It is an interesting event when two entirely different travelling cultures encounter each other. During my anthropological fieldwork among the Mursi in South-western Ethiopia I was interested in discovering what the local people think about the tourists that they meet. One of my findings was of the Mursi peoples’ contempt for Western tourists. The Mursi is a small-scale semi-nomadic group, one of the classic examples of African nomadic societies. It was therefore remarkable how they disdained tourists, another mobile group, because their wandering was their defining feature. “They are always just coming and going” was the basic criticism from the Mursi when we talked about the white tourists. They clearly perceived travel and mobility as different and superior to mere ‘tourism’.

Despite the fact that the Mursi often condemned the tourists’ reckless and restless behaviour, they regularly asked them to travel with them. For example, they asked the tour guides or the drivers of the tourist cars to bring them to the closest town or very near to a neighbouring settlement. They also often asked me to drive them in my rented car. It was difficult to resist these requests, and my car was usually full of people who suddenly seemed excited by the idea of travel. Once I asked a woman why she wanted to come on a long car journey but she could not give me a decisive answer. She basically said she had nothing to do where we were going and asked me to bring her back on my return. This was the point at which I started to be interested in how local people travel outside of their territory with alien visitors. Where the act of nomadism ends and the ‘sightseeing’ starts.

It was clear to see that beside the necessary journeys (for example, moving between the Omo River and the higher pastures) most Mursi were enthusiastic about occasional travel opportunities. Regardless of age or gender, most of the local people seemed to enjoy travelling for leisure, and the technological power that they associated with aliens (tourists, researchers, NGO workers, etc.) attracted these nomadic people. Tourists generated tourism; they created a situation for nomads where travel was not merely a necessity but became a sort of holiday.

With this in mind, why does anthropology still generally regard tourism as the privileged leisure form of Western, bourgeois, healthy, literate, economically powerful societies? Should the semiotics of searching, resting, seeing, gazing, and wandering rest only upon the urge of escape from the industrial epoch? Should only industrial Western societies be regarded as tourists or can we describe the Mursi’s occasional travels as tourism? Where does the idea of the ‘nomad’ end and that of the ‘tourist’ begin? How does the idea of tourism, or rather the appreciation of the tourist experience, evolve in a society where it is only recently that people have had the opportunity for long-distance travel that brings them away from their localised existences and gives them new experiences?

In the past, anthropologists and ethnographers have classified societies according to their ability and willingness to travel; as social science articles were mostly written by sedentary people nomads, itinerants, drifters and vagrants were often regarded as marginal to society. This negative portrayal of mobile societies undoubtedly stems from the idea that political and economic success is connected to a sedentary lifestyle. However, itinerancy is held in high social and cultural esteem among nomads and other wanderers, where the ability to move is often the determiner of economic success, which effectively answers the above questions, inevitably challenging the normative concept of nomadism and the taxonomy of tourism. 

The Mursi is a semi-nomadic society and, as such, often move with their cattle between different settlements or cultivation areas at the Omo River and the higher grasslands. When they have to travel, they walk. They have a great respect for walking and an unwavering knowledge attached to the act of walking. For example, only fools walk when the ‘sun is bad and burns’; a man should hold up his head as he walks and a Mursi person should be able to walk long distances. Mursi people often mimic how different people walk, how the Mursi or how the white man walks in a certain rhythm. I was often criticised by my Mursi friends for ‘flopping’ my sandals (dragging my feet) on the paths while I was walking. They said I did it in the wrong tempo, making inappropriate noises. After a while I realised that being mobile also means understanding the correct rhythm of body movement. Movement was not perceived only as a physical activity but as a multi-layered cognitive category that has a rhythm and an emotive pulse. Not everyone can move properly: at least, not according to the Mursi. Knowing the perfect time for moving from one place to another equates to successful household management. Journeying is the hub of the Mursi identity, or as David Turton states in his discussion of the relationship between the Mursi identity and travelling: “They had not made the journey, the journey made them”.

This logic would result in the following premise: tourists don’t make the travel but travel makes the tourists, namely opportunity enables the Mursi to occasionally change from a traveller (a nomad) to a tourist. Clearly there is a notable difference between nomads and tourists, both in terms of physical distance and in the perceptions of both. Travelling on the well-known walking paths between the Omo River and the higher territories is a different experience than going by road to the towns of Jinka, Konso or Arba Minch in tourist cars, government cars or recently by public transport. Travelling out of the Mursi living space requires a different rhythm than walking from a cattle camp to the Omo River. There are new noises and tempo (of the vehicles); new rhythm of the whole travel. The novel forms of travelling have allowed the Mursi to have new experiences in the form of: alcohol, food, material goods, and people. Most Mursi people distinguished themselves for this new form of travel: they wore Western style clothes, shoes and had backpack. Most of them did not travel outside their territory in the same clothes as they travelled at home. But most importantly, the Mursi had travelling tales when they returned to Mursiland. Some of them already had, hidden in their huts, a photo collection from their travels. Seeing these pictures and telling the stories customarily distinguish these new travels from the habitual ones, i.e walking from place to place: they have a different rhythm and a different pulse.

Tamás Régi
Leeds Metropolitan University, UK

Tourism Research as "Global Ethnography"

Tourism is a topic that has traditionally been treated with great ambivalence in anthropology, particularly compared to related issues such mobility and globalization. This is certainly curious considering that tourism continues to be the largest and fastest-growing industry in the world, even in the post-9/11 environment of terrorism fears and economic recession. This may explain why business schools, hospitality departments and management programs—particularly those outside of the United States—have embraced tourism studies, but it does not explain its relative neglect by, for example, economic anthropologists and others who are concerned with global flows of money, peoples, or information. (To be fair, tourism is so ubiquitous that many of us cannot but deal with the topic, but often in a tangential way). 

Indeed, it is even more curious that Malcolm Crick’s seminal exposé, “Representations of International Tourism in the Social Sciences” (Annual Review of Anthropology 18(1) 1989)—now some 20 years old—still seems relevant today: Crick pointed to a pan-literati prejudice towards tourism, which is often perceived as a (post-)modern bourgeois distortion of more honorable and edifying forms of journeying such as pilgrimage and Grand Tour-era travel (see, for example, Boorstin’s diatribe on tourism in his 1961 classic The Image: A Guide to Pseudo-Events in America). It probably doesn’t help that tourists (religious and secular) are often loathe to even consider themselves tourists, and often prefer to mark themselves out as different from the tourist masses. For example, those who walk at least 100 km along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela wear scallop shells to denote themselves as “real” pilgrims, as opposed to the other devotees who come by car or tour bus; and both low-end backpackers and high-end “FITs” (free and independent travelers) often try to avoid popular “tourist trap” destinations by visiting less prized, but presumably more “authentic” sites.

Fortunately, tourism may finally be taking its place as a legitimate realm of anthropological inquiry, if a recent issue of Anthropology News (November 2010) dedicated entirely to the topic is any indication. Articles dealt with heritage appropriation, the representation of material culture, “pro-poor,” community-based, and volunteer tourism, and especially the tourism industry’s growth in developing countries in Asia and Africa. But as classically situated in a particular “field site” as many of these articles were—the Chinese ethnic village, the African archaeological excavation, or, in my case, the World Heritage site of Angkor—it was evident that the field of inquiry was not local, but global.

In light of this, I propose here that anthropology can better embrace tourism’s relevance and dynamicism when research is undertaken as a form of “global ethnography.”

While this form of research emerged over a decade ago during the globalization craze (see, for example, Michael Burawoy’s classic, Global Ethnography, University of California Press, 2000), anthropology is beginning to truly embrace global ethnography—if not always the terminology. A global ethnography examines the forces, mechanisms, and social effects of globalization—the compression of time and space, the disembeddedness of social life, and the empowerment of individuals over formal political units. It considers the social world as existing in networks, -scapes or flows; it looks at social relationships between sites; it follows objects and peoples and re-presentations as they move across time and space, in order to better understand the increasing interrelatedness of world cultures.

The first step when carrying out a global ethnography of tourism, however, is to recognize that there exists a particular culture (or particular cultures) of tourism, which differentiates this phenomenon from other ways of life. That is, a “tourist culture” espouses a particular worldview, it links a diversity of peoples together who share a unique identity, it utilizes particular processes to organize and order diversity.

1) A Cosmological Concern for Culture
It may be obvious, but tourism revolves around culture—the very realm of anthropologists. Indeed, the work of archaeologists and museum anthropologists are particularly valorized by tourists, whose often-fatiguing travels are motivated by interacting with material culture. Archaeological sites, religious structures, museums, and “picturesque” landscapes (See Roland Barthes’s classic essay on “The Blue Guide” in Mythologies, 1972)—particularly when considered cultural or natural heritage—count among the top tourist attractions, and serves as touchstones in creating a collective tourist identity throughout time and space. Tourists are likewise attracted to all those intangible markers of identity that have traditionally been the realm of anthropological inquiry: ritual performances, religious ceremonies, art and craft production, music, cuisine and other authentic “traditions.” Indeed, as the first wave of tourism-focused sociologists and anthropologists pointed out in the mid-1970s, tourists are drawn to authenticity—or the perception of authenticity (see, for example, Dean MacCannell’s classic, The Tourist, 1976); they are seduced by tension-ridden Freudian preoccupation-cum-fascination with transience, and particularly valorize those monuments or cultural practices that seem to have withstood the inevitably destructive flow of time.

2) Organization of Diversity
There are a number of definitions for “culture,” but Anthony F. C. Wallace and Marshall Sahlins (among others) both pointed to the fundamental role of culture in “organizing diversity” (See Wallace’s essay, “Epilogue: On the Organization of Diversity.” Ethos 37(2), 2009; and Sahlins’ essay “Goodbye to Tristes Tropes” in Culture and Practice: Selected Essays, Zone Books 2002). Tourism, as both a practice and a worldview, is fundamentally predicated on this. Tourists not only understand that there exists alterity outside of their everyday boundaries, but they actively seek it out—as John Urry pointed out in his seminal book, The Tourist Gaze (Sage 1990). The “tourist gaze” is a form of seeing that is predicated on difference, on literally looking for alterity. In Valene Smith’s classic edited volume, Hosts and Guests (U Penn Press, 1977), Nelson Graburn asserted that tourism is fundamentally a break from the work-a-day normalcy, an endeavor to temporarily step out of one’s comfortable (or uncomfortable) everyday life, to experience difference. While the experience itself is ephemeral, the taking of photographs, the bringing back of souvenirs, the exchange of travel tales, and, most importantly, the frequent desire to repeat or relive the experience (perhaps in a different destination) all point to tourism’s formative and lasting role in fashioning and re-presenting one’s identity through time. As the anthropological truism goes, people often describe themselves by what they are not, rather than what they are.

Tourism also has a social structure that helps to organize diversity. In my book, The Heritage-scape: UNESCO, World Heritage, and Tourism (Lexington Books, 2009), I argued for the existence of a “field of touristic production” (cf. Pierre Bourdieu, The Field of Cultural Production, Columbia U Press, 1993). Bourdieu’s Marxist overtones aside, it should be recognized that there are a number of different epistemic groups—knowledge-based groups that often transcend geographic boundaries (cf. Karin Knorr-Cetina, Epistemic Cultures, Harvard, 1999)—who interact in various ways to produce a touristic experience: global tour operators, local service providers, tour sponsors, site managers, tourists themselves, the local community, and other so-called “stakeholders.” These groups espouse different understandings of the site, and often conflict in how a destination is re-presented to, and consumed by, others. Like other cultures, they also police the borders of their own groups, often through language: Tour operators, for example, have particular idioms—a secret language of buzzwords—that differentiate their members from the common traveler. (Use the right terminology when booking and a provider might just give you 10% off their service, which is the industry norm!)

3) Ritual practices
In the vein of symbolic anthropology, and building on Sir Edmond Leach’s ritual theory, Nelson Graburn first asserted that tourism has a particular ritual structure which serves to foster those formative in situ experiences. (See also his article, “The Anthropology of Tourism,” in the Annals of Tourism Research 10(1), 1983). Implied in this is Victor Turner’s assertion (in his work on pilgrimage) that these voyages foster a sense of communitas—a way of temporarily transcending the social structure that divides its varied participants—creating a sense of unity in diversity. As a ritual, it can also serve as a rite of passage (like a birthright tour, an Anglo-Australian “gap year” trip, or even a honeymoon) and a rite of intensification (periodic rites that refresh the natural and social order, such as the summer vacation, or an annual pilgrimage).

4) Tourism’s perspectival nature
As Urry intimated, tourism is fundamentally perspectival. It is a particular way of seeing the world through contrasts, a way of literally looking for difference. Urry defines the tourist gaze as being defined by its opposite—non-tourist forms of social life. I would go further, insisting that tourism’s perspectival nature is more fundamental a quality than mobility; one can be a tourist without traveling long distances, or spending inordinate amounts of money or time. All one needs is a change in perspective: one can be a tourist in his/her own backyard, (think about a college student who takes, or leads, a campus tour for incoming freshmen). This concept thus frees the analyst from always identifying economics as a primary motivating factor (or constraint) on tourists, and focusing squarely on more “socio-cultural” elements (such as ritual). It also allows us to examine more fully domestic tourism—that is, the relatively under-researched, extra-ordinary consumption of local sites by locals themselves.

With these structural and phenomenological qualities in mind, here are some preliminary suggestions for conducting a “global ethnography” of tourism:

1) Visitor analysis at a fixed “control” site
Many of the great ethnographies of tourism locate the anthropologist in a fixed site or village, analyzing the flows of tourists as they pass by. This has many benefits: it is a way of identifying how visitors treat the site, what characteristics of the site are attractive to various demographics, what rituals are performed and how this creates unity and/or difference. It also reveals how locals treat various demographic groups and vice versa. Since the site serves as a “control,” it is also a way of understanding broad demographic trends in tourism.

2) Follow the tourist
The converse of this methodology is to follow the tourist as (s)he moves from site to site during the course of a tour. This allows the anthropologist to focus squarely on the rituals and practices that occur throughout the entire tourist experience, which includes bus transfers from monument to monument, drinks in the bar after a long day, and sleeping in the hotel at night. Many tourists candidly talk of their impressions of a monument or the trip in general during casual periods at restaurants and bars, offering valuable insights into the progression of their experience.

Should one be able to travel with the same group of tourists to different destinations over a long period time (alumni associations, fraternities, and business departments often do these types of annual “rites of intensification”), (s)he may be able to gain valuable insights into common meaning-making processes of tourism.

3) Study a particular epistemic culture
As many tourist ethnographies have done, one can also study a particular stakeholder group within the field of touristic production. Many of these epistemic groups are themselves global; their identities are predicated less on geographic proximity, but rather on the forms of knowledge they possess. Indeed, for all of its materiality, tourism is fundamentally a knowledge-based industry: For example, the best tour guides possess the best knowledge of the destination, but also understand how best to communicate that knowledge to different constituencies; and the most successful tour operators and service providers know the right people to obtain the best rates, or the inside scoop on a new destination or rare private visit. Conducting an ethnography among these groups as they produce and re-present their knowledge—in the vein of William Mazzarella’s ethnography of an Indian marketing firm, Shoveling Smoke (Duke 2003)—can helpfully reveal the ways in which meaning of a site is shaped, disseminated, and mediated.

4) Research the social networks connecting epistemic cultures
It follows that the networks that connect different epistemic groups should be analyzed fully through social network theory, interviews with key mediators, and other forms of inquiry aimed at viewing how knowledge is constructed, contested and mediated. Understanding that a Bourdieuian field of production is created through the positioning and position-taking between and among these diverse groups, it is helpful to fully examine those instances in which groups clashed—publically and privately—over ideological control of a destination or its narrative.

5) Analyze the production of tourist imaginaries
If tourism is perspectival, then tourist imaginaries—production, diffusion, consumption, and re-presentation—become a fundamental area of study. Noel Salazar’s recent book, Envisioning Eden (Berghahn 2011), which examines the practice of disseminating knowledge (and imaginaries) by tour guides in developing countries is an excellent example of such a global ethnography. Other ethnographies have taken the Appadurai approach and “followed the object”—in this case, examined how a souvenir, relic, or photograph changes in meaning and value as it physically (or even through representations) moves across cultures or epistemic groups.

6) Conduct a “virtual ethnography”
One can analyze how these imaginaries are re-presented by various constituencies on the Internet by examining tourist blogs, postings on social networks such as Facebook and Twitter, and user-generated photo databases such as Flickr and Picasa; websites by service providers, cultural ministers, and other promotional entities; Internet databases from heritage and conservation groups such as UNESCO, ICOMOS, World Monuments Fund, SAFE, Global Heritage Fund, and others; and even social networking sites for particular diasporic communities (how does the global Khmer community appropriate Angkor Wat?). But conducting a “virtual” participant observation may also entail posting and interacting with members on message boards, commenting on user-generated tourism sites such as TripAdvisor, and chatting with tourists (either those who are currently traveling or who have returned) on Facebook or Skype. Best of all, this can be done in the comfort of one’s own home, with minimal funding!

These are just a few of the methodological approaches to conducting a global ethnography of tourism, and by no means is this list intended to be exhaustive. I hope that readers may comment on this posting, adding their own methodology suggestions and creating what could be a helpful resource for future global ethnographies.

Michael A. Di Giovine is an anthropologist and former tour operator currently completing his doctorate at the University of Chicago. Working in both Southeast Asia (Cambodia and Viet Nam) and Europe (Italy), his research focuses primarily on tourism/pilgrimage, heritage discourses, religious movements and revitalization. Check out his website, here.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I was lucky enough to live and work in Siem Reap, Cambodia for about a year in 2009-2010. During my tenure at the non-profit organization, I carried out program research in underdeveloped rural communities, including pilot research, implementation, and follow-up activities. I had many opportunities to explore the countryside while also enjoying the multifaceted and continually transforming cities. Although I was familiar with the events in Cambodia during the 1970s, and had additionally heard many sorrowful stories from individuals that I worked with, I was unprepared for this experience. I tried to objectively look at the situation, as an ex-pat and tourist, but because by that point in my job I personally knew ex-Khmer Rouge soldiers, as well as countless individuals whose lives were forever changed, S-21 hit me like a rock. I used my camera as a type of defense mechanism on my first visit in order to separate myself from the despondence, but returned again in order to experience the museum fully.

The photos below include Tuol Sleng’s four main buildings, one of which was encased with barbed wire in order to prevent prisoners from jumping to their deaths. The rest of the buildings were converted into both group and individual prison cells, complete with bars and torture tools that are now on display for visitors. Additionally, I included a few shots that have visitor writing on the walls and/or in books.

















While living in Siem Reap, Cambodia last year I had the opportunity to visit Phnom Penh’s Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (also known as Security Prison 21, or simply S-21). The site was originally built as Chao Ponhea Yat High School years before it was converted in 1975 to a makeshift prison. During Khmer Rouge occupation, rooms were transformed into tiny brick and concrete cells, barbed wire was laced throughout the encampment, and various types of torture chambers were scattered throughout the complex. For the next four years, Khmer Rouge officers imprisoned and tortured an estimated 17 thousand individuals, of which only 7 survived.

If visiting Cambodia, I urge you to travel down to Phnom Penh (which is routinely skipped over) and visit S-21. Although it may be difficult to complete the tour of the four large buildings, it is truly one of the most remarkable locations I have ever seen. To imagine people actually living out their days imprisoned and tortured in these small spaces is almost unfathomable. While visiting S-21 a second time, my sister broke down and cried outside the thousands of anonymous prisoners pictured in one of the group holding cells. It truly is a sobering experience. 

As a tourist location, S-21 offers a piece of Cambodia’s recent history put on display for travelers. The space is re-imagined through current visitors that swarm (yes, it is a very popular site) in and out of prison cells and barbed wire, seeking answers to questions from tour guides that you can pay for at the entrance. And even though each visitor’s experience at S-21 is unique, each visit is also framed by cultural perceptions and a visitor’s sense of identity. What the visitor takes away from Tuol Sleng is highly dependent on what they knew before they visited, their identity-related needs that are tied to reasons for visiting, as well as types of conversations they have while in the museum, by what they do and see in the museum, and by what they think about, see and do after they leave. As captivating as the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is, it unfortunately is a very recent tragedy and one that still haunts many of Cambodia’s current population.

Notes: I do not intend to strictly parallel Cambodia with the Khmer Rouge through these photos. As you may know, it was a terrible time in the country, but in no way do current Khmer define themselves by these events. They are remembered as a part of a history, but not their entire history. Additionally, many Khmer Rouge soldiers held out in villages up until the mid 1990s. Although the "official" Khmer Rouge time frame is 1975-1979, in reality it was from the 1950s through the mid-1990s. Two of the villages that I worked with during my tenure in Siem Reap Province were sporadically invaded by Khmer Rouge holdouts for years after 1979. Many perished, but the ones that survived are anxious to find stability after years of continued economic and social unrest. It is a pretty amazing situation. And, from what I heard while living in Cambodia, the country has come a long way since the 1980s and 1990s and continues to re-build everyday.

If interested in some further reading, I recommend Why Did They Kill? Cambodia in the Shadow of Genocide by Alexander Laban Hinton. It is one of the first anthropological attempts to investigate origins of genocide. For a more intimate reflection on an individual’s experience growing up during the Khmer Rouge, I suggest First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung.

Lastly, in July 2010 Kang Kek lew (also known as Comrade Duch), director of Tuol Sleng prison during the late 1970s, was the first Khmer Rouge member found guilty of crimes against humanity, torture, and murder in his role as the former commandant of the S-21 extermination camp. He was sentenced to 35 years in prison.

Conor Muirhead

Tourism: Trinketization and the Manufacture of the Exotic

Abstract*
Tourism has several modes in which, more often than not, its cultural charge is impoverished. As a huge global industry it spans the world, and makes objects of people, places, meanings and experience. A vast publishing apparatus promotes this: visitor’s guides, travel literature, holiday brochures, route maps and itineraries. As pleasure- and treasure-hunt, tourism commodifies in several ways; it can be presented as educational horizon, since we have to take seriously the ideology that travel broadens the mind, and this has its privileges; as market for the strange, the curio, the souvenir and the remote, tourism brings all “Chinese Walls” battered and bruised into the guidebooks and snapshot albums of the bargain-hunting hordes. The reduction and destruction that tourism visits on the peoples and places of the ‘under-developed’ world are not the only ills of globalization for sure; and some may make the case for tourism as a force for cultural preservation; as opportunity for exchange; or tourism as solidarity and as a kind of charitable aid. On the whole tourism suffers a bad press upon, what some call, a lonely Planet

Exotica
Tourist sites and experiences are glossed in promotional literatures with a well known and now instantly recognizable code: sunsets over palm fringed beaches; temples and monuments in jungles or deserts; curious modes of transport – the camel, the elephant, the auto-rickshaw or canoe; smiling cherubic youth; feathered warriors or remote Masai women in costumed dance. The adventure of tourism in the so-called ‘third world’ mixes these exotics with pleasure getaways, luxury resorts (swimming pools just meters away from pristine beaches seem clearly excessive); home comforts and promises of safety, running water or fully-catered treks (with Nepalese Sherpers perhaps to carry any real weight; with political concerns safely tucked away in the non-tourist peripheries – alarmingly increasing, as the ‘axis of evil’ expands).

The trouble with much tourism literature has been that it must ignore politics, commodification, inequality and exploitation at the exact moment that these matters are the very basis of the possibility of ‘third-world’ tourism in the first place. If there was not a wealthy tourist elite (or relative elite) looking for leisured rest and/or exotic experience outside of their everyday world, there would be no tourist economy. In a competitive market the travel magazine version of the world of tourism must present the beach, the pina colada, the ‘interesting’ cultural life of others as a packaged for ready sale. The educational dimension of culture then becomes benign. Inequality is reduced to cultural difference, and may sometimes be presented as something the tourist economy can even alleviate. In Denis O’Rourke’s film “The Good Woman of Bangkok” you can hear sex tourists brag that their custom keeps Thai women from a life of poverty. In the Americas, ‘spring-break’ festivities in the Caribbean or in South America occlude a more urgent educational agenda. In South East Asian hotels, the artist of Wayang Kulit and Gamelan, not to mention less salubrious traditions, are maintained through nightly performances for businessmen that pay top dollar for entertainments they need not fully understand. Or rather, they pay for the experience of difference, of not understanding otherness. The exotic is its own reward – does it matter that these traditions are reduced in cultural importance by the way? Some would argue against such traditionalism.

The benevolence of tourism and charity work
A guilty secret resides at the heart of third world tourism. Holidays in other people’s misery seem inappropriate and yet – the beaches are beautiful; the tsunami a tragedy. The equation can be resolved by charitable donation or by the presence of the tourist themselves. After the Asian tsunami of 2004, rebuilding of destroyed tourist resorts in India, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Indonesia were soon followed by calls for the tourists to return, as part of the reconstruction. There is a cultural maintenance aspect here that deserves attention: in circumstances of dire wealth disparity and limited economic means, the tourist economy provides cultural workers with an expressive outlet. Ritual forms morph into entertainments, but are nevertheless preserved – albeit in museumized forms. This is a difficult evaluation to make – as many of the needed tourist dollars are not actually spent in the effected countries when one takes into account the destinations of profits from tourism after airline ticketing, charter and package tour bookings, hotel and food chains (MacDonalds and Coca-Cola all over Thailand for example) and even sale of travel guides and the market in television travel shows. Ultimately, there is a very small percentage of economic return left for local entrepreneurs in each case, and the structure of colonialism prevails.

In recognition of this, some travelers (a sub-category of tourist, also known as backpackers, eco-travelers, or development workers) seek out charitable works, a few days at a Mother Theresa clinic or volunteer washing of elephants at a nature reserve or similar. This kind of benevolence is authorized and approved in many travel guides, and in newspapers advertisements and documentary programmes, through the mechanism of a heart-tugging image of an (always smiling) child that would be the necessary motivator for even a gesture (‘send just a few coins’) of care or concern for dispossessed human beings. Clearly charitable activities, even where they ‘help’ a bit, are also part of the benevolent self deception of the tourist gaze; serving to deflect meaningful recognition of gross economic privilege and, along the way, turning guilt itself into a commodity form. One does a few days voluntary work in Calcutta (see Hutnyk 1996) to excuse a month of hedonism on the beach in Goa. Similar logics justify the carbon footprint calculations of even the most well-meaning environmental traveler – to walk in the pristine rain forest and leave a ‘soft-footprint’ is still to treat the planet as object for rapacious use. Locals be damned.

Souvenirs
Tourists collect experience but we have to have mementoes to remind ourselves that the fantasy was real. The same photographs of the smiling kids; various nick-nacks and trash purchased from the local flea market, from the beach trader, from the state emporium or from the airport departure lounge. Thus, trinkets are then displayed on shelves at home, gathering dust, or gifted to relatives and friends not lucky enough to have been there. Postcards similarly gloat and preen. The overarching theme here is that world experienced is reduced to mere bric-a-brac. The complex global forces of capital, of work and leisure, of the division of labour and the vast networks of information and infrastructure – planes, hotels, servants, right through to Kodak processing labs and internet travel blogging – is miniaturized in handy squares or convenient packets that can fit neatly onto the luggage rack. The idea of the souvenir is reduction itself – the veneer of the trinket, the face, ironically, of exploitation write large. That we have learnt not to read these signs in any wider register is also part of the sanctioned ignorance that tourism authenticates.

Post tourism
But of course we are, many of us, fully aware of this hypocrisy. So much so that the inauthentic has become a part of the quest. Searching out the most gaudy plastic outrageous object proves one has not been duped by the exotica-merchants. To be in pursuit of the authentic is an essentialist trap, but to have continued past this to accept inauthenticity as part and parcel of the world leaves commodification intact. What kind of self-deception is this that extends tourist purchase to the most esoteric of objects at the same time as it can buy up the mundane? I have seen tourists purchase gaudy plastic tap handles for their metropolitan bathroom fittings, or plastic models of the Taj Mahal, with flashing lights, as a tongue in cheek, high kitsch, souvenir. The post-tourist irony here (Urry 1990) does not break with trinketization at all, but rather confirms the process, and extends it exponentially.

Trinketization
Trinketization will stand for the process of reifying the world downwards into trash. What the anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss lamented when he saw the detritus of the West thrown back into the face of humanity has now become the detritus of all our lives, and we can even revel in it. Does this not suggest a political diagnostic? The argument here is not for an end to tourism, thoroughly unlikely that could even be considered and the planetary consequences are obscure, but might we look towards the remote possibility of a better tourism, an ethical and even revolutionary tourism? What of those travelers who expressly seek out meetings with the Maoists in Nepal, who march in hope of a meeting with the reds of the Himalaya; or those who travel to learn from the Ogoni in Nigeria of their struggle against the multinationals? There are travelers who go to seek sun and friendship, and this seems worthy, but others go further and seek out local authors, artists, performers: a cultural exchange programme is not a forlorn idea. I have seen a travel group barter performances with street musicians in a way that was only possible on the basis of the same commercial exchange that the critic of tourism in me deplores. Mass tourism is destructive, but there are those who take seriously the possibility of alternatives that do more than just talk the talk. For a new tourism perhaps?

What then of Tourism Concern etc.
Isn’t the solution to relax, to stop moralizing against tourism and against those who claim tourism could be better (soft-foot-printers)? For tourist resorts and pleasure peripheries to circumvent the attacks of critics there needs to be problem-solving of issues like employment security, wage reform (in many cases, actual wages would be a start), workplace regulation, civic responsibility, impact on water table (the beach hotels in Goa are particularly irresponsible, as in many other coastal areas), cultural uplift, political support, promotional drive, sustainable movement. Organizations such as Tourism Concern (link) aim to merge a critique of the destructive aspects of mass tourism with maintenance of the adventure of travel; it claims to ‘fight exploitation’ and seems to do so with a positive and progressive compromise that would mitigates destruction. In case after case I find this overly optimistic, but the orientation of the critique is perhaps the best we have. Coupled with consumer advocacy and environmental concern (vapor trails and aircraft pollution leads to global warming – ‘is that journey necessary’) there seems just the glimmer of hope that the exponential rise in travel may not destroy us all – but current forecasts seem bleak. Second only to the war economy as a site of expansion and investment, the global market of tourism strips all demand. The tourists hordes resemble an all-consuming plague and the planet is ravaged as if by locusts; thereby chewed into bits.

Limitations
The trouble with making the case that tourism turns everything into trinkets is that a theoretical approach that pursues this line is in danger of becoming a part of the problem as well. The world becomes a kaleidoscope of fascinating sites in the same way that theoretical analysis can latch onto any example and use it for its argument. What would not be subject to post-ironic touristic exoticization. The Guardian newspaper today, as I write (December 20, 2006) reports the Mayor of war torn Grozny planning tourist visits and mocks the idea with the question ‘but will bullet proof vests be supplied?’. Yes, we can imagine how the war-devastated landscape of the Chechnyan city might become a stop on some adventure tour, which might also then take in other ‘dark tourism’ sites, not al of them inappropriate as places to visit – holocaust memorials, Iwo-Jima, former prisons and locations of famous battles (Gallipoli) might also be on the itinerary. To call this trinketization would miss the emotional purchase of such investments, despite the raw fact that investment is also behind the touristification of war. The problem with trinketization here is that analytical purchase is also often reduced to a façade in much of what passes for the study of tourism, as if replicating the gloss of the brochures also amounts to a diagnostic of the global predicament (see Clifford 1997 for several examples of this). What chance is there that travel really broadens the mind of the analyst also?

Coda
The Banana Pancake trail. From Cape Tribulation in Australia to Marrakech in Morocco there is the budget traveler phenomenon of the cosy guest house or traveler hostel in which trusted comforts from home are served up to weary travelers. This can be glossed as the ‘banana-pancake trail’ which serves as a shorthand – an obviously gratuitous reference to the ubiquitous back-packer snack – for the contradictory ‘adventure of experience of ‘otherness’ that third world travel can be. In search of otherness but in need of the comfortable trappings of home, backpacker discussion in the guest houses and lodges is so often about where one is from, what you would like to eat when you get back, how the food gives you ‘Delhi-belly’ or similar, the mosquitoes, the toilets, the rip-off taxis. Quite often such discussions go on while the traveler is served cola or chai or French fries or so by a 12 year old who has worked from dawn, seven days a week, sending money home to the rural periphery that the traveler will rarely see.

On Post-War Tourism: I am assured by the Swedish anthropologist Victor Alneng, who knows these things, that Lonely Planet impresario Tony Wheeler had his eyes set on Afghanistan for some time. As evidence Victor translated from a Swedish newspaper interview in September 2002 the following insights into the wheeler-dealer’s thinking: Wheeler: ‘When a place has been closed there is always a group of people that want to come there first. After them come the large hordes of travellers’. Reporter: ‘So what destinations will be the next big thing, after East Timor?’ Wheeler: ‘Angola and Afghanistan will come eventually. Maybe also Iraq. We were on the verge of sending one of our writers to Afghanistan as early as last summer, but it proved to still be very difficult to travel outside Kabul. Information ages quickly, so we chose to wait a little’ (Translation by Victor Alneng).

John Hutnyk
Goldsmiths College
Website


*A version of this text appeared in: Battlegrounds: The media Vols 1 & 2 eds Robin Anderson and Jonathan Gray. 2008.

References

Alneng, Victor
2002  ‘“What the Fuck is a Vietnam?”: Touristic Phantasms and the Popcolonization of (the) Vietnam (War)’ Critique of Anthropology, Vol. 22, No. 4, 461-489.

Clifford, James
1997  Routes: Travel and Translation in the Late Twentieth Century Harvard University Press.

Crick, Malcolm
1994  Resplendent Sites, Discordant Voices: Sri Lankans in International Tourism, Harwood Academic, Chur.

Frommers
1984  Guide To India, Frommers Guides, London.

Hitchcock, Michael and Teague, Ken (eds).
Souvenirs: The Material Culture of Tourism, Aldershot: Ashgate

Hutnyk John.
1996  The Rumour of Calcutta: Tourism, Charity and the Poverty of Representation, London: Zed books.

Jules-Rosette, Benetta
1984  The Message of Tourist Art: An African Semiotic System in Comparative Perspective New York: Plenum Press.

Lennon, J. John, and Malcolm Foley
1999  Dark Tourism: The Attraction of Death and Disaster, London, Cassell.

MacCannell, Dean
1989[1976]  The Tourist, reprint of 1976 version with a new introduction, Random House, New York.

MacCannell, Dean
1992  Empty meeting Grounds: The Tourist Papers, Routledge, London.

Olalquiaga, Celeste
1999  The Artificial Kingdom: A Treasury of the Kitsch Experience, London: Bloomsbury.

Phipps, Peter
‘Tourists, Terrorists, Death and Value’ in Kaur, Raminder and John Hutnyk Travel Worlds: Journeys in Contemporary Cultural Politics London: Zed books, pp 74-93.

Urry, John
1990  The Tourist Gaze: Leisure and Travel in Contemporary Societies, Sage, London 1990.

Open Thread: The Tourism Issue

Ok, this is where you--the readers of this site--get to take part in the discussion.  This is where you can post your reactions, corrections, theories...or pictures from your last trip to Skull Rock.  Whatever.  This is a blank slate.  Go for it. 

Arrivals, perceived and actual

Ethnographies start with ethnographers. What classic, or contemporary for that matter, ethnography doesn't include an arrival story? Generally, it is some variation on a story about getting off the bus, waiting for the dust to clear, and then looking around and figuring out where to begin. These arrival stories are fresh in my mind, having spent the last five years or so reading ethnographies in graduate seminars. Sometimes topics seem to have their own arrival stories. This is the case with the anthropology of tourism. Many monographs about tourism at some point discuss the arrival of anthropology to tourism as a serious scholarly pursuit. In fact, most edited volumes on the topic dedicate much of the introduction to the telling and re-telling of this arrival. I suppose we call it “positioning,” but why the need to wax reflexive about an entire field of study?

Even while our arrival story is flying hot off the presses out into the growing market for literature on tourism, there is another arrival story brewing. As new forms of touring emerge and gain popularity, are those of us engaged in the anthropological study of tourism too busy talking about how we got here to discuss where we are going? The case in point here is that of volunteer tourism. Voluntourism is a growing niche market, especially among “gap year travelers,” or recent college graduates who choose to take a year off before entering the job market or continuing on to graduate school. In a manner similar to the way eco-tourism grew out of and along with the turn toward all things “green,” voluntourism is growing along with the increased turn toward volunteerism. Increasingly, “gap years” and other travelers leave home to spend time on some sort of volunteer initiative, to participate in solidarity tourism, or both.

Solidarity tourism arrived in the 1970s, when individuals began traveling to areas where liberation struggles were taking place. It is likened to sustainable tourism, but with the indication that the focus is on social or cultural sustainability rather than only ecological or economic. Political contexts employ the concept of solidarity as well. There are numerous travel options that provide an opportunity for the tourist to “stand in solidarity” with a political entity or with a group of people opposing a political entity. The Olive Harvest Campaign is an example of this form of solidarity. Finally, we find solidarity as way to describe the camaraderie that develops among individuals who are interested in similar travel options. A Facebook group, Traveller’s Solidarity, plays on the desire of many travelers to set themselves apart from tourism and, more importantly, from the oh-so-pedestrian tourist. The many forms of solidarity tourism provide travelers with lots of options, and volunteer initiatives are positioning themselves as forms of solidarity tourism. Given that the concepts surrounding solidarity and volunteer tourism mirror the stated goals of alternative tourism development, it is no surprise that they linking with community-based tourism projects.

In thinking further on the question of tourism ethnography and its arrival story, it seems that the need to distinguish ourselves from the tourist drives its proliferation. As I research the volunteer tourism phenomenon, I find that there are not as many anthropologists studying this as I had thought. The majority of work is coming out of tourism and hospitality studies. Yet it’s probable that, like tourists in general, anthropologists are encountering volunteers around their field sites. Perhaps we are again seeing a reluctance to examine this because of the similarity it bears to our own work. Many scholars have attributed the latent scholarly reaction to tourism among anthropologists to reluctance to explaining the difference between touring and fieldwork. Is the repetition of this latent reaction a departure from our arrival story or is it a new arrival all together?

Voluntourism offers yet another layer of difficulty, for who among ethnographers is not at some time also a volunteer? I certainly have been asked to help from time to time with tasks such as translating promotional documents and painting signs, or troubleshooting a computer problem. I hadn't thought of myself as a volunteer in the context of my research on a community-based tourism initiative until last summer when a community leader asked me how I would like to be introduced to a group visiting from a similar project. Volunteer? Teacher? Anthropologist? My first reaction, of course, was anthropologist. Mario questioned this and wondered if they would understand what my role was. He said, “volunteer, I think Sarah.” He said that he would tell them I worked on the nature trail project. When I quibbled that I didn’t really work on that project, he countered, “but they will like that, they'll understand it. Everybody has a project.” And with that he identified me as someone who was in solidarity with the community. Even though I may have felt solidarity in my role as an anthropologist dedicated to this field site, he knew that what mattered more was the solidarity that others perceived me to have. He knew that they would want to know my arrival story; how I got there. By categorizing me as a volunteer, he was essentially telling them “she's supposed to be here.” Perceptions in this context are crucial to him. To be perceived as Maya garners interest of tourists and federal development funds. To be perceived as poor/traditional/rural secures the desire of volunteers to come to help. Similarly, to be perceived as standing in solidarity with this community provides voluntourists with a clean conscience…they have acted as conscientious consumers, as conservationists, as activists. Plus, they have achieved solidarity with other like-minded travelers who anxiously wait to tell their own arrival stories. And so maybe the telling and re-telling of anthropology's arrival to tourism (or vice versa) is also about perceptions. By explaining how we got here, we too are stating that we are supposed to be here.

Sarah Taylor
Ph.D. student, Anthropology
University at Albany, SUNY